2019 Simonnet-Febvre Les Clos Chablis Grand Cru

While weighty and a bit impenetrable in youth, this powerful Chablis balances rich pear and tangerine flavors against a backdrop of stone and steel. Vinified in one- to two-year-old oak barrels and matured up to 18 months on its lees, it's a broad-shouldered sip accented by caramelized honey and white pepper. Hold until 2025, and it should gain delicacy and nuance through 2035.

Stunning depth and ripeness with slightly exotic character (flowers, herbs and fruit), plus some melted butter. Full-bodied, but very elegant, the intense minerality driving this along. Intense, salty finish. Drink or hold.