2017 Neil Ellis Jonkershoek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Widely regarded as South Africa’s first négociant, Neil Ellis released his debut vintage in 1984. These days the winery still sources its grapes from growers across the Cape; son Warren Ellis is the winemaker. A single southwest-facing vineyard in the Jonkershoek provided the fruit for this wine, from vines rooted in decomposed granite and Table Mountain sandstone. The wine saw 18 months’ maturation in 100% new French oak. The cellar is located at the foot of the Helshoogte Pass. Malu Lambert: Creamy oak and black cherry opulence. Deep, satisfying aromas, sketched in with graphite, flint and a hint of savouriness. Palate likewise. Deep and layered. Andy Howard MW: Very attractive. Dark cherry fruit and good use of oak. Lovely spice notes and some leafiness. The finish is slightly dry, but this should improve with time in bottle. Roger Jones: Silky. Fresh blueberries. Bright and clean, with refreshing bursts of blue fruits. Well balanced. I love the freshness and sense of ease, which allows the fruit to sing.

This is a rich and robust pour, with an intense nose of char, cigar box and pipe tobacco atop a core of black fruit preserves. It’s full and decadent in the mouth, with a robust, velvety palate that offers beautiful structure and fruity richness all at once. The finish is long and wood-fueled at the moment, but this has the stuff and overall harmony to do well over the medium term.