2023 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Dense licorice and forest berry aromas mask the deep tannin structure of this Chateauneuf-du-Pape masterpiece. Full-bodied but with a lightness of touch. Then the power and stony intensity pour over you in a giant wave. The freshness is extraordinary for this hot and dry vintage. Serious tannins in the very long, compact and refined finish. From organically grown grapes. Drinkable now, but best from 2027.

A tasting of the constituent parts this year, so this is a provisional score. The Terret Noir, Muscardin and Vaccarèse were fermented together; they provide the more fragrant top notes, bright and attractive if not deep. The Cinsault was perfumed and fresh, with fine tannins. The Counoise was more savoury, with more depth and tannin; tense and saline, and spicy thanks to 50% whole-bunch fermentation. The Grenache was soft and supple, fairly dark in colour, quite structured, with impressive freshness, tannins and acidity. The Syrah was deep, intense, black-fruited and peppery – quite potent in alcohol, with intense tannins. The Mourvèdre will be 30% of the blend, contributing mouthcoating, deep and succulent tannins, plenty of flesh and quite high alcohol. The overall impression is a deliciously rich and ripe Beaucastel.