2021 Viña Cobos Chañares Estate Malbec Los Árboles

Brilliant in blueberries, oak spices and creme de cassis, the wine is opulent in texture, lavishly concentrated and sleek. Aged in about 50% new French oak barrels, there are baking spices over black cherries, dark plums and cocoa. Estate grown, organically farmed, sophisticated and polished. Best from 2028.

A clear standout in the Viña Cobos portfolio is the 2021 Chañares Estate Malbec, derived from vines planted in 2007 in sandy-loam soils with calcareous and gravel content. It fermented in open-top stainless tanks and underwent an 18-month élevage in 50% new French barrique. A pure, complex, spice-driven bouquet accented with blue fruits, anise and purple flower aromas is followed by a silky yet dense palate rendered with admirable refinement and precision. It concludes with a multifaceted finish that melds vibrant acidity, ultra-refined tannins and a beautiful retronasal perfume that lingers with remarkable length. This was my favorite wine in the Viña Cobos lineup, and I suspect it will develop beautifully in bottle over the coming decade.